Tuofei Watch Lecture Hall —- Six Steps To Teach You How To Identify Mechanical Watch Movements

Watches and watches have a long history. The knowledge contained in them is rich, especially for those who are very professional in the recognition of technical terms, movements, and adjustment and maintenance of watches. Jia specially invited a well-known professional watch researcher in the domestic watch industry, and will gradually explain watch knowledge to you, and learn and share with you.
 
  The movement of a mechanical watch is relatively unfamiliar to ordinary people. The reason is that we usually only pay attention to how the mechanical watch looks, but we don’t care much about the internal movement. However, as consumers who buy mechanical watches become more and more high-quality themselves, they are more and more interested in the mystery of the internal movements of mechanical watches, and the thirst for knowledge of watches is very strong. In order to popularize this knowledge for everyone, I will teach you how to identify the internal structure and quality of mechanical watch movements in six steps:

Working principle of mechanical watch movement
  Step 1: When you get a movement, just like meeting someone who has n’t known him before, first look at the person’s appearance, then look at his appearance, and then you can make a preliminary judgment about his accomplishments. grade. The same is true for the initial feeling of the movement. First, look at its appearance on the front and back, and then carefully check whether the machining level of each plywood and each transmission component that can be seen inside the movement is delicate, and the decorative texture. Whether it is well-balanced, from this you can judge whether this movement is exquisite in appearance, and from this, you can see that its design concept and the fineness of processing are obvious. Otherwise, the parts are rough and even Twisted and distorted, the appearance of the ugly movement will be well understood;
  Step 2: At this time, the movement is in a stop state. You can first wind the movement by turning the arbor, while observing the balance spring system and the escapement. When you make a maximum of three turns (Swiss movement) It usually takes only one turn), the balance spring system and the escapement start and run. This step is to test the vibration performance of the speed governing mechanism of the movement. If it fails to start normally or is delayed, it indicates that the speed regulating system of the movement is defective, especially the escapement part may be abnormal and requires professional The watch repair master to handle;
  Step 3: If the balance spring system and the escapement can start normally, you can continue to rotate the winding system of the winding shaft to drive the movement. At this time, special attention should be paid to: 1. Your winding feel should be comfortable Strenuous and uneven feeling. 2. Pay attention to the sound when listening to the winding. 3. The number of winding laps should not be too much, it is best to be around twenty laps. This step is to test the winding performance of this movement;
  Step 4: If your movement is in the third gear, pull out the spindle to the second gear. At this time, pay attention to the gear when you pull out the second gear. The gear should be clear and you can clearly feel that it is in place. Then turn the arbor to dial quickly for additional functions. Generally set functions are calendar and weekly calendar. At this time, the key point to check is that the calendar ring or weekly calendar wheel is driven by the speed dial gear teeth, and each tooth should skip very rhythmically. If there is no sense of rhythm like swallowing jujube, it means that there are problems with the additional functions of the movement, which needs to be checked carefully;
  Step 5: Pull out the arbor to the third gear, and turn the arbor to move the hour and minute hands. At this time, you need to pay attention to the same place as when checking the winding system, and still feel better. However, it is more important to observe that when the two pointers overlap to the 12 o’clock position, there must be no deviation in the middle of the pointers, otherwise the display time will have errors. In addition, if you are interested, you can continue to rotate the arbor to make the hour and minute hands continue to rotate after 24 hours. Note that the calendar ring will jump once. This is to examine the performance of the calendar mechanism under actual operation rather than rapid dialing.
  Step 6: If your movement has an automatic mechanism, the easiest way to check its performance is to pay attention to the position where the automatic rotor sags naturally, and then turn the movement vertically to see if the automatic rotor always maintains this orientation, indicating automatic The gear train performance is very flexible. If the automatic tourbillon cannot keep the same position, then there may be resistance in the part of your automatic gear train. You need to check the gear train in this part.
(TIPS: The so-called third gear means the first gear is the winding gear, the second gear is the additional function gear, and the third gear is the adjustment time gear. The so-called two gear means that there is no second additional function adjustment. Gear, only the other two gears.)
  Speaking of which, the identification process of a movement is basically completed. Because the general structure of the mechanical watch movement is consistent, only the functional design of the movement is different in the early stage, and the overall layout of the later movement will be tailored to local conditions. As the complexity of the structure increases, the complexity of each part of the movement itself increases, and the probability of mechanical structure problems will increase.
Note: This article is exclusively authorized to reproduce it!

Jacques Launched Limited Edition Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Watch

Limited edition of 18 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon à Quantième Perpétuel tourbillon watches in pink gold, with a 42mm 18K rose gold case, clear and easy-to-read dial, equipped with hours and minutes , Seconds, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and many other functions, can be called the ultimate expression of beauty and function. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can see the operation of Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic 987 movement. The watch is set with 124 high-quality 1.9 carat diamonds, has a 48-hour power reserve, is equipped with an alligator leather strap, and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is equipped with a silicon escapement to ensure perfect timing. Silicon is an excellent material. With its excellent hardness and extreme wear resistance, it can be used without lubricants. Its superior friction coefficient greatly reduces the friction inside the movement. Its lightweight and unparalleled body performance Good inertia, which improves operational efficiency. In addition, the production technology of silicon allows watchmakers to make very complex parts with precision that cannot be matched by steel. With the flexibility of this component in the definition of geometry, it is possible to carve out a hollow structure with a smaller rotor and moment of inertia, allowing more energy to be transmitted to the balance. Finally, silicon can also be used to make one-piece parts, such as built-in pawl pallets, and the design itself improves accuracy.

Real Trajectory Around The Sun: Time Equation Watch (Below)

The legendary ‘Marie-Antoinette’ Breguet No. 160 is probably the earliest pocket watch with time equation function. It was ordered by Queen Mary’s admirers to Breguet in 1783. It should have been a gift to her. However, when the work was finally completed in 1827, Queen Mary and Abraham-Louis Breguet were already there. Passed away. For more than a hundred years, this work, also known as the ‘Queen of Mary’, went through twists and turns, and was stolen at the L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art in Jerusalem in 1983 and returned in 2007.

In 2005, Breguet decided to remake an identical pocket watch based on the original structure of Breguet No. 160. This pocket watch was presented at the Basel Show in 2008 as Breguet No. 1160. The transparent dial allows people to directly see the movement structure and operation, including kidney-shaped cams at 8 o’clock, levers and positive and negative hands indicating the time difference at 10 o’clock.
   Before recovering the stolen Queen Mary Watch, Breguet decided to recreate an identical pocket watch based on the limited historical data of Breguet No. 160, that is, Breguet No. 1160, which was displayed at the Basel Watch Fair in 2008. Of course, its complexity is not only limited to the time equation, but also a perpetual calendar and a three-question function capable of transmitting time with sound; it is also a creation that is sufficient to explain the history of the development of brands and watches. .
   Just talking about the time equation, how can we ignore it?

Marine Équation Marchante 5887 950 platinum / 18K rose gold case, 43.9 mm diameter, hours, minutes, retrograde date, day of the week, month, leap year perpetual calendar, tourbillon, true solar hour, power reserve display, luminous hands and time scale, 581DPE Self-winding movement, 80-hour power reserve, sapphire crystal mirror and case back, waterproof to 100 meters, alligator strap.
Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
   Master Breguet is one of the greatest watchmakers in history. He not only invented tourbillons, Breguet double-layer hairsprings, etc., and other important devices that changed the world of watches and clocks. He is also the original creator of the Queen Breguet No. 160 pocket watch. His precision timepieces have made a profound contribution to the watch industry, as well as measurements in the physical and marine fields. His achievements have been affirmed by King Louis XVIII of France, and he was appointed as the Board of Directors of the Paris Economic Commission in 1814. of Longitude); then Breguet became a manufacturer of precision timepieces for the Royal French Navy.

   This Marine Équation Marchante 5887 can be said to be a tribute to Master Breguet. First of all, it is very important that the precise timing tool allows the crew to determine the position of the ship at sea; this is the spirit of the Marine series. Equipped with a tourbillon that eliminates the effects of gravity, a perpetual calendar, and the function of calculating true solar time, the watch has a complicated process. In particular, the structure of the true solar time is driven by a kidney-shaped cam on a sapphire crystal glass plate, which is clearly visible at 5 o’clock. With the month scale on the glass plate, the true solar time hands decorated with the faceted golden sun can Learn the true state of the earth around the sun. Underneath the kidney cam is a tourbillon that rotates once a minute. In terms of appearance, the design of the dial Shanghai Wave is used to create a sea-going situation. The movement’s plywood and barrel are engraved with the Royal Navy’s first-class battleship Royal Louis and the compass pattern.

Attic Craftsman Celestial Super Complex 3600 watch in 18K white gold case, 45 mm diameter, hour, minute, time equation, perpetual calendar, moon phase, moon age, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, season, two to Dot, bisector, Zodiac, Tide, Sun-Earth-Moon position display, Northern Star transparent sky map with stellar galaxy, Zodiac, Tianqiu equator track, stellar time, tourbillon, power reserve display, 3600 manual winding Movement, power reserve 3 weeks, Geneva mark, sapphire crystal glass and back cover, waterproof 30 meters, crocodile leather strap, adjustment pen and magnifier, engraved ‘Pièce Unique’ on the case back.
Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
   Vacheron Constantin’s ability to make complex watches is beyond doubt. In addition to many wonderful masterpieces in history, Ref. 57260, launched on the 260th anniversary of the brand’s founding in 2015, is the most complicated pocket watch in history. And this attic artisan’s super complicated 3600 watch is also quite simple. In addition to the complex functions such as tourbillon and perpetual calendar, which are often used to show watchmaking skills, it also has sunrise and sunset, long day, long night, tide, and zodiac. Palace, spring, summer, autumn and winter, spring equinox (EQ), summer solstice and winter solstice (SOL) and other astronomical functions; the window at 9 o’clock can display day and night and moon phases at the same time, saving space, and more realistically expressing the present moment The state of the sky; at three o’clock, there are three-dimensional relative positions of the earth, the moon, and the sun. No matter in the mechanical structure or the display of the dial picture, it is not trivial.

   The hour and minute hands of the watch are made of 18K white gold, and another coaxial rose gold hand indicates the true sun. On the dial, which is very informative, it is easy for the wearer to read. However, the focus of this work is actually not the time equation, but the vast universe. When flipped over to the case back, you will find that Vacheron Constantin condenses the entire Tequila in a space less than 45 mm in diameter, including the trajectory of the celestial equator and the ecliptic; with the month, 24-hour scale and indicators of the outer circle, astronomical observation can be read Stellar time. And underneath the nature, it is equipped with the most dynamic tourbillon. Although hidden in the back of the case, it is also a low-key, but it also represents the connotation of the superb and complicated 3600 watch.

Christophe Colomb Equation of Time 18K rose gold case, 45 mm diameter, engraved wheat ear dial, hours, minutes, small seconds, time equation, power reserve indicator, gyroscope, El Primero 8808 manual winding movement, power After 50 hours of storage, sapphire crystal glass and case back, waterproof 30 meters, alligator strap.
Zenith Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
   In the era of great sailing, intelligent humans used the time on a timer to compare the elevation angle of the sun with a timer to calculate the longitude of the location and determine the location. In the process of navigation, an accurate ship clock played a very important role. The clock must be precise, in addition to being able to avoid the impact caused by the waves and the changes in temperature and humidity, the gravitational pull of the escapement must be taken into account. If the escapement can maintain the level with the center of the earth, there will be no problem of azimuth; but the wave of the waves makes the ship undulate and it is difficult to fix the angle of the ship’s clock. Therefore, some people use the Cardan suspension (a rotary balance ring that keeps objects at a fixed angle) named after the 16th-century Italian mathematician Girolamo Cardano to maintain the ship clock and the center of the earth (that is, So-called gyroscope).

   This device can also be used on watches, of course, not the entire watch, but for the escapement system. Just like Zenith’s Christophe Colomb Equation of Time dial at 6 o’clock, it is made of 167 parts, including a balance wheel with a frequency of 36,000 revolutions per hour, which can always keep the escapement parallel to the ground. ; So there is no need for a tourbillon. However, the 9 o’clock direction is equipped with a time equation hand, and the kidney-shaped cam is also exposed at 1:30 on the case back, which simply expresses profound astronomy. The name of the watch is taken from Christophe Colomb, a tribute to the explorer who started the era of great sailing.

Go To The Pinnacle Of Watchmaking Craftsmanship: Bulgari’s 2016 New Octo Watch

Since the launch of the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement Finissimo Tourbillon, this technology has set a new benchmark on the altar with the extremely slim appearance combined with the most sophisticated and sophisticated technology. Octo Finissimo Skeleton 2016 Presents the ultra-thin process with the new Ultrarano.

   Octo watches will continue to explore the infinite possibilities of ultra-thin movements. Bulgari first introduced the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch in 2014. This time it will release a new masterpiece of the top watch: the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch, which becomes the world’s thinnest minute repeater. BVLGARI has once again pushed the limits of timepieces, setting a new record in this extraordinary field. Octo’s unique personality makes it inherently extraordinary. Not only is it a classic, but it is re-launched with a new look in 2016. It is equipped with the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement, infused with a unique watch design, and shows the complicated precision of the hollow ultra-thin movement with a modern black style.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, titanium case, diameter 40mm / thickness 6.85mm, hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater, BVL 362 hand-winding movement, 3.12mm thick, waterproof 30m. Limited to 50.

New milestone: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater
   Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is a new work of BVLGARI’s original ultra-thin movement watch series. With the simultaneous introduction of the tourbillon and manual movement in 2014, the brand immediately set an unparalleled new milestone in the field of slim timepieces. The chronograph movement is still the most sophisticated top-level watch technology, and only a few top brands retain this unique craft.
   A chronograph watch involves various special structural restrictions and mastery of certain skills to achieve the best results: After the chronograph mechanism is activated, it must emit a clear and pleasant tone with a perfect, harmonious and stable rhythm. It seems simple, but it is not easy. To obtain this set of parameter combinations, you must have extremely professional and advanced technology, and only a few brands currently have this ability.

The case of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is made of titanium: it not only significantly reduces weight, the characteristics of this low-density metal ensure the best sound diffusion.

   In addition, these guidelines apply to timepieces that are generally large enough. Because of their wide internal space, they can produce the best sound propagation speed in the case and further ensure perfect sound quality. However, for the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, everything has to start from scratch because the goal is to achieve the perfect sound quality in the smallest space. The numbers are the best proof: the thickness of the BVL Calibre 362 movement developed and manufactured by Bulgari is only 3.12mm, and the overall thickness of the case is only 6.85mm.
From scratch
   When developing the technical characteristics of this timekeeping mechanism, it looks like a blank piece of paper. So BVLGARI’s Le Sentier watch workshop uses a variety of different levels to solve the problem. First of all, the case is made of titanium: not only is the weight significantly reduced, the characteristics of this low-density metal ensure the best sound diffusion. The hour markers on the dial are also made of the same material, with a sculpted hollow design, including a hollow small dial at 6 o’clock, which can increase the resonance in the case and create beautiful sound effects.

The beginning of the development of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater can be said to be like a blank piece of paper. So BVLGARI’s Le Sentier watch workshop uses a variety of different levels to solve the problem, starting with a design.

   Each solution is backed by another technology. The circular gongs directly attached to the case are individually hand-cast in the production process. There are many different stages to making a complete gong, from the preparation and shaping of stainless steel parts to tones and harmonics. The two hammers of the timekeeping device also pour out the careful craftsmanship. This ultra-thin case is condensed with 362 ultra-miniature parts, and the centrifugal flywheel deceleration mechanism vividly displays the time effect. It includes two inertial governors with a total diameter of only 3.3mm. The button that activates the timekeeping mechanism uses the ‘all or nothing’ security mechanism and is placed in the case at 9 o’clock. This design ensures a continuous water-resistant depth of 50 meters. And this manual winding movement provides a 42-hour power reserve.

The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is equipped with a BVL 362 hand-wound movement, measuring only 3.12 mm thick.

   The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch interprets the concept of ‘thinness’ with an innovative model of thinking, and lays the foundation for mechanical technology and classic complex performance with a new method. At the same time, it still keeps the brand’s advantage and consolidates the top watch Tradition. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch is about to become a watch star, with a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater can be seen through the sapphire crystal back of the beautifully carved BVL 362 bracelet movement.

OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON: Outstanding
   The Octo Finissimo Skeleton watch brings the same brilliant performance with a distinctive aesthetic, allowing the most tasteful watch connoisseurs to immerse themselves in the beautiful posture of the movement. This hollow timepiece with stunning thinness and easy to read is about to conquer fascinating precision watchmakers with a low-key and complex structure.

Octo Finissimo Skeleton, stainless steel case with DLC finish, 18K rose gold bezel, diameter 40mm / thickness 5.37mm, hours, minutes and small seconds, BVL 128SK ultra-thin skeleton bracelet movement / thickness 2.35mm, Water resistant to 30 meters.

   The black details of the watch add a visual sense to make the movement stand out. Each part is polished with infinite precision, like a precious trim, adding a sexy touch to a watch covered in black silk, with gold trim as an embellishment. The stunning charm of this watch stands out in both its ultra-thin appearance and detailed work. It is equipped with a Calibre BVL 128SK manual winding movement, with a small second hand and a power reserve display. The hollow-out mechanism is only 2.35 mm thick, giving it a 65-hour power reserve. Boldly combine multiple technologies with aesthetics with a modern design.

BVL 128SK ultra-thin skeleton bracelet movement is only 2.35 mm thick.

OCTO ULTRANERO: Modern black, masculine charm
   The Octo case inherits the brand’s Italian genes, with a simple appearance and a complex inner structure. Render geometric structures with flexible lines. The elegant style retains the natural leisurely atmosphere and adds interest to life. Because the Octo model is not a performance-seeking work, on this basis, the Octo series continues the Italian hedonistic thinking, creating classic and extraordinary models for confident men, no matter the professional workplace or elegant leisure Life can interpret different styles. Every inch of the series of watches is in line with contemporary trends, and the year-over-year changes have gradually strengthened its power and demonstrated its unique personality.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case with DLC surface treatment, can be matched with rose gold bezel, diameter 41 mm, hours, minutes, seconds, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 meters.

   Black has an inherent masculine and elegant personality, and Italian designers are the leaders in creating the black trend. Bvlgari’s new Octo Ultranero black watch is styled with modern elegance. The perfectly structured case is treated with black diamond-like carbon coating, highlighting the unique Italian aesthetic strength. The geometric design is immediately reminiscent of Italian architecture and modern furniture styles, and can even be linked to the appearance of stealth fighters, which also adds a touch of mystery and obscurity to this shape. Some Octo Ultranero also launched all black version and ‘mixed black’ version. Different designs include the use of golden elements on the hands and hour markers to set off the extreme deep black of the dial; or the addition of a rose gold bezel for an elegant contrast.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case and bezel with DLC (black diamond-coated carbon coating) surface treatment, 41 mm diameter, hour, minute, second, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 meters.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo
   All models of Octo Ultranero use superb hand-assembled, polished and other watchmaking processes. Not only are they equipped with the most outstanding mechanical movements, but they still cleverly retain the simple design style. Depending on the expectations, preferences and uses of watch fans, the Octo Ultranero Solotempo watch with a diameter of 41 mm can be selected, equipped with a BVL 193 automatic movement. The BVL 193 self-winding movement is equipped with a watch specially designed for measuring and reading time. It is equipped with a dual barrel movement and is equipped with a 50-hour power reserve, emphasizing the accurate display of hours, minutes, seconds and dates.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case with DLC (black diamond-coated carbon coating) surface treatment, rose gold bezel, diameter 41 mm, hours, minutes, seconds, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 Meter.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo chronograph
   The Octo Ultranero Velocissimo chronograph offers another unique option for contemporary gentlemen. Whether it is a sports-loving male or a keen aestheticist, they will submit to its simple and masculine structure. The Octo Velocissimo Chronograph watch equipped with BVL 328 will appeal to men who love sports style, and its high-performance movement has an accuracy of one tenth of a second.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph, stainless steel case with DLC finish, rose gold bezel, 41 mm diameter, hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, BVL 328 automatic movement, waterproof 100 meters.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph, stainless steel case and bezel with DLC finish, 41 mm diameter, hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, BVL 328 automatic movement, waterproof 100 meters.

Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon Tourbillon
   Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon is equipped with an ultra-thin self-made bridgeless flying tourbillon movement (BVL 268), and places Finissimo Tourbillon precisely in the center of the movement. With a thickness of just 1.95 mm, it is enough to be the thinnest movement in the complex performance field. A hand-wound mechanical movement fully polished and hand-finished with a 52-hour power reserve. The beautiful tourbillon movement is installed in the elegant and modern Octo case. The all-black case is specially made for this limited edition. It is made of black diamond-coated titanium.

Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon, titanium case with DLC surface treatment, 40 mm diameter, hour, minute, tourbillon, BVL 268 bracelet movement / 1.95 mm thick, water resistant to 30 meters.

   The crown is made of rose gold and inlaid with ceramics, symbolizing Bulgari’s outstanding craftsmanship in mastering precious metals and watchmaking technology, and creating a modern watch masterpiece with the traditional jewelry brand. The Finissimo Tourbillon with a diameter of 40mm is only 5mm thick, showing the elegant style of a slim structure. Adopt the transparent bottom design to see the beauty of rare and eye-catching machinery. The black lacquered dial is also infused with the same ingenuity, and a transparent tourbillon frame window is designed at 6 o’clock. Octo watch’s exclusive hollow pointer design brings a layer of transparency to the dial.

The Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon is equipped with a black diamond-coated titanium case. The crown is made of rose gold and inlaid with ceramics, symbolizing Bulgari’s outstanding craftsmanship in mastering precious metals and watchmaking technology, and creating a modern watch masterpiece with the traditional jewelry brand.

Large Dial Leather Belt: Rough Watch Wild Counterattack

In recent years, some watch brands no longer indulge in the elegant impression of the past. Brass case, oversized hands, polished rough leather strap, and industrial screws and nuts, this watch from the war, mixed with the icy atmosphere of modern industrial civilization and the wild style of Western American cowboys, The rapid revival in the past two years has become one of the most popular watch styles.
In fact, nowadays, many mechanical inventions and discoveries have been born out of the demands of war, such as the innovation of the steel manufacturing industry, such as the discovery of ‘penicillin’. Watches are no exception. The rise of rugged watch designs stems largely from the two ‘World Wars’ that occurred in human history. During World War II, wristwatches were put into military use on a large scale. Almost all countries have placed orders with watchmakers to customize watches that can meet the needs of war. The demand for this watch is sturdy and durable. The movement can be rough but must not be delicate. In addition to being equipped with anti-magnetic or waterproof functions, the other most important design point is that the dial must be large enough, just like the indication of mechanical instruments is easy to read. As a result, large-sized watches began to appear. At present, the largest dial of men’s watches is only 48 mm. At that time, the diving watch made by Panerai for the Egyptian SEAL had a dial size of up to 60 mm, which is almost the same as that of a portable mortar. it’s the same.
Not only is the dial large, but the straps of pilot watches and diving watches are also specially customized and lengthened. Because early pilots needed to hold the joystick firmly with both hands, their most common approach was to tie the watch to their thighs. A large dial like an instrument panel allows them to read the time quickly and accurately. At that time, commando divers were required to wear heavy wet suits, so the strap had to be extended and very strong to resist the impact of the current. Until the end of the war, just like military uniforms usually become civilian clothing. As the fashion road goes further and further, this rough watchmaking style created by war has also been retained and became a branch of watch design. .
Brass case, oversized hands, polished rough leather strap, and industrial screws and nuts, this watch from the war, mixed with the icy atmosphere of modern industrial civilization and the wild style of Western American cowboys, The rapid revival in the past two years has become one of the most popular watch styles.
These watches are often made of high-hardness composite materials, which are very strong and wear-resistant, and have excellent shock absorption. At the same time, those heavy case designs, as well as the decoration of screws, are generally treated with a waterproof function. Therefore, such watches are more suitable for daily wear. It’s like the difference between a suit and a denim jacket, one is essential in formal occasions, and the other can accompany you for more than ten years and will never be out of date.
The rise of American Vintage style also gives this rough design style watch a stylish home. Panerai’s vintage watches were regarded as ‘relics’ by a small number of people in the circle, and some people said that ‘like an unpolished jade, it emits a wild light.’ This ‘wild light’, like the protagonist of ‘Wandering Rider’ and the Indiana Jones in ‘Indiana Jones’, became the perfect portrayal of the man’s image.
I love big dials
Hublot King UEFA EURO 2012 Ukrainian
This is the latest watch designed for the European Cup. The 48mm dial is the largest size in the world. However, the case made by Wang Jin and ceramics does not appear heavy and superfluous, but it is domineering. At the same time, the layout of the dial is full of Hublot’s respect for football: the central 45-minute timer is specially designed for the European Cup-this is the time of the half-time football game. The official logo of the 2012 European Cup is clearly displayed on the back of the sapphire mirror, and the football pattern inspired by this logo surrounds the inside and outside. You know, this is the most intimate brand with football today. As early as 2009, they started to sponsor the Manchester United football team.
Material time stamp
Panerai Luminor submersible 1950
This very heavy taste bronze watch by Panerai, numbered PAM382, uses a fully-automatic P9000 self-winding movement with hours, minutes and seconds. With a diameter of 47mm, it is a real tough guy watch. The bezel, case, lugs, and unique crown are all made of bronze and have been crafted to make it unique. Both the table mirror and the bottom cover are made of sapphire. Among them, the table mirror is made of sapphire made of corundum with a thickness of 4mm. The caseback and the ring are linked by titanium. Water-resistant to 300m.
In addition, the design of the dial and hands has also been improved accordingly. The Arabic numerals, sandwich dial design, and traditional hour and minute hands have been eliminated, and replaced by a new design with a stronger sense of power.
The time stamp on the brass material is one of the reasons that fascinates many retro lovers. Just like leather and tannin cloth, brass will oxidize with some external elements, such as sunlight, air, and moisture, and produce a green rusty gloss on the surface, but it will not weaken the material.
Distressed leather
& Bell & Ross WW2 bomber pilot watch
The Bell & Ross brand has always been fond of flight history. This Vintage WW2 bomber pilot specification pointer watch is derived from Air Force timepieces commonly used during the Second World War, and is a bomber pilot from the 1930s and 1940s A tribute to the use of timepiece instruments. This watch highlights the function of the minute hand so that the pilot can calculate the position or flight speed, which has very practical military value.
The steel case of the Vintage WW2 Bomber Pilot’s Specification Hands Watch is treated with gunmetal (gray) color coating, which adds a touch of unique glossiness to antique watches; sand-colored hands, numerals and time markers, combined with a matte leather strap The power of authentic Air Force timepieces.
Eye-catching pointer
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
The improved Oyster Perpetual Explorer II launched by Rolex in 2011 paid special tribute to the original 1971 model. It was equipped with 24-hour orange hands, but made a slight adjustment to the design of the case. Expanded to 42mm. The geometric scale indicators on the dial are particularly eye-catching. In addition, the black dial style is equipped with black hands, making the hands look like floating on the dial.
Black is beauty
Roger Dubuis Pulsion Chronograph
GERROGER DUBUIS ‘new Pulsion series chronograph is inspired by the adventurer’s world. Its exquisite craftsmanship, infinite power and extraordinary vitality are the true portrayal of adventurers. This chronograph with DLC black titanium case and rubber strap is built for action.
行动 This time-designed timepiece is equipped with a 44mm diameter case made of DLC black titanium, which fully reflects the vitality. The polished and satin alternating surfaces highlight the complex structure of the watch, showing a sense of strength and powerful design strength.
Pulsion titanium chronograph comes with a polished and satin-finished black rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp.
Screw decoration
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watch
As we all know, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak design is inspired by the portholes of yachts, the octagonal bezel and the eight hexagonal screws arranged on the bezel are an irreplaceable classic design for watch fans, while its solid shape emits Masculinity. The brand’s most important Royal Oak collection was born in 1972. This year coincides with the birth of the Royal Oak series for 40 years, so at this year’s SIHH, the brand launched a number of watches like this classic series to pay tribute.
This 41mm self-winding watch is made of all-steel material. It is particularly worth mentioning that the unique “Grande Tapisserie” large plaid decoration on the surface of the watch is Audemars Piguet’s exclusive craftsmanship, created from the inside by ancient machines. It becomes a irreplaceable feature of Royal Oak when it is cut into squares and printed with a grid pattern.

Chinese Tourbillon Watches The Highest Level Of Chinese Watchmaking Industry

China’s watch production has accounted for 80% of the global market, with a total export value of about 2 billion US dollars, accounting for only 10% of the global market. In the domestic market, the sales revenue of domestic watches is less than 30% of market sales, which is far lower than the sales of foreign brands in China. The annual output of watches and clocks in Switzerland only accounts for 3% of global production, but exports account for 40% of international market sales.
The overall technical content of China’s clock and watch export products is not high, and it is still in a technology-led stage. The brand’s influence is weak. It is completely at the base of the pyramid in the international division of labor.
However, we also have to see hope. After years of recovery, our domestic watch brands have also begun to show their prominence in high-end watchmaking technology. Domestic tourbillon watches are just such a technical direction. Here is an introduction for you. Several domestic boutiques
Limited edition of the ‘Houyi Divine Bow’ tourbillon
Movement: Tourbillon movement
Case: stainless steel pop-up case
Dial: White Paris dial, blue steel hands and hour markers
Strap: Black American alligator strap, folding clasp
Waterproof: 30 meters
Reference price: 89800 yuan
Seagull week tourbillon rose gold watch

Movement: Seagull self-winding tourbillon movement
Case: rose gold case, transparent bottom case back
Dial: White Paris dial, rose gold hands and hour markers, power reserve display, calendar display
Strap: Brown alligator strap
Size: 39.7 mm
Waterproof: 30 meters
Reference price: 78000 yuan
Beijing Painted Leopard Enamel Double Tourbillon Watch

Movement: Homemade dual tourbillon movement
Case: Rose Gold Case
Dial: Silver-painted enamel dial, double tourbillon at 6 and 9 o’clock
Strap: brown alligator leather strap, rose gold buckle
Waterproof: 30 meters
Reference price: 220000 yuan

Parmigiani Launches Stunning New Wooden Tourbillon Music Watch

Explain the beauty of music with inlays-this is the challenge that Parmigiani gave himself. This year, Parmigiani launched three stunning pieces: two Tonda Tourbillon watches. The dial evokes people’s imagination of the world of music and art, and since then has set a new standard of excellence.

 Tonda Woodstock (US Version)

In order to show the colorful and natural musical vitality, Parmigiani for the first time adopts exquisite and delicate inlay craftsmanship. This is a truly ancient craft, mainly trimming and assembling on wooden planes to create extremely fine decorative effects
 Various colors and inlaid mosaic mosaics make the musical temperament of each timepiece appear, which shows that this watchmaking brand with Fleurier as its origin has long supported the modern music culture. .

 Parmatron launches new wooden tourbillon music watch

The wooden inlaid timepieces not only demonstrate the excellence of watchmaking, but also the infinite creativity of Parmigiani. They express Parmigiani’s devotion to advancing this rare and ancient handicraft: protecting and inheriting traditional arts and crafts always has a place in the Swiss watchmaking industry.
 The iconic new Tonda Tourbillon tourbillon watch displays the inlay craftsmanship applied by Parmigiani for the first time ever on the dial. Two styles are available, both unique and stunning. Its creativity and boldness are breathtaking.

 Tonda Woodrock (UK Version)

The creators of Parmigiani’s designers aim to make the timepiece vivid and unconventionally depict a musical scene like a literary work.
The guitar is a musical instrument with a natural connection to wood inlays. The designers decided to use the British flag and American flag patterns as the background inspiration for timepiece design, in order to pay tribute to these two most influential countries in rock music history. The tourbillon device of the Tonda watch is like the speaker of a guitar. The effect of the complex vibration of the tourbillon complex device seems to give the guitar a life. The ingenious connection between the two makes the music and watchmaking art merge into this.

Each dial that has been crafted with inlaying craftsmanship contains more than 50 pieces of dyed wood, the result of 10 days of hard work. These woods are designed, cut, and assembled to the best of their ability to reach a smooth surface that appears to the naked eye.

Tonda Tourbillon’s two models are named Tonda Woodrock (UK version) and Tonda Woodstock (US version)-these two self-contained models are a perfect example of sound and sound, they use extraordinary watchmaking techniques Music without borders.

 Parmatron launches new wooden tourbillon music watch

Mosaic art
Mosaic work is a respectable ancient art that is no longer common in life.
The process of inlaying is mainly to cut out some inlays on the wooden plane and assemble them to create extremely delicate decorative effects. Inlay craftsmen are often trained as furniture technicians. They are hardworking and precise. From the initial sketches on paper to the creation of spectacular mosaics that can subvert the original design-the many high-tech processes of mosaic art are well known.
The work of mosaic craftsmen began with the original design of Lintong, and they used a special tool (Rotring drawing pen) to carefully draw each element. This copying work is the basis of the mosaic work, from which the size and contour of each design block can be determined.

玛 玛 Parmaqiang launches new wooden tourbillon music watch

Next, inlay craftsmen reprint ten or more design drawings on paper, and they will use these drawings to cut out different design blocks. In preparing for this critical cutting stage, the craftsman selects the wood, the selection criteria relate to the color and surface of the wood, and then piles the 10 carefully selected woods together. The wood is firmly nailed together with nails, and then the copy map to be processed is glued to the top of the pile of wood. Use a saw blade to carefully cut along the boundary of the copy image to obtain 10 wooden blocks with the same shape. Even if all that is needed is a wooden block, the inlay craftsman always cuts it with a pile of wood, and then only keeps the most successful cut of the 10 blocks. Every design block has to go through this process. Even if there is only a slight difference between each design block, each block must be cut according to this set of procedures. There are as many different woods as there are differences. Blocks and how many different colors.

玛 玛 Parmaqiang launches new wooden tourbillon music watch

Once the last block is cut, there seems to be no more complicated procedures. At this time, the craftsman will start to assemble the design block. However, even this last step is not easy, and often there are unexpected ‘surprises’. Although the entire process strictly follows the dimensions, when the block assembly stage is reached, the craftsman may still find very small errors or small eye-catching cracks, so the entire work is ruined. The craftsman must start from scratch and patiently copy and cut again as needed.

玛 玛 Parmaqiang launches new wooden tourbillon music watch

In the work of mosaic work, we must insist on and be precise. Even the smallest details must be carefully considered, and we must not forget to take the overall situation into consideration. Everything is revealed at the last minute because of the results of the mosaic work. At this time, each block is perfectly embedded in its own position and plays its role as part of the whole.

The Luxury Watch Generation Is More Expensive Than The First Generation, But The Price Of Mark Has Dropped

It is not too late to get to the topic. Before, many people complained that watches are becoming more expensive. No matter what the reason is (inflation, technology, cost, publicity, etc.), the luxury watch generation is more expensive than the new generation, and the new model is more expensive than the old one. This is a common phenomenon. Something I was most impressed about a while ago was that I went to try the new Vacheron Constantin’s new vertical and horizontal, and found that after the price adjustment, the public price of the big three-pin steel shell vertical and horizontal (that is, 4500V) has risen to more than 160,000, which has surpassed Royal Oak 15400 Less, the new style is chasing the nautilus rhythm. Like Omega, the price of the coaxial upgrade from 8500 to Zhizhen also increased. Rolex rose a lot from 5 to 6.
   However, there are some watches. Under the trend that luxury watches are becoming more expensive, the price of the new models is lower than the old models. For example, Rolex’s DJ using the new generation 3235 movement, 126334, 126300 is a little cheaper than the previous 116334, 116300. Omega’s 2017 version of the hippocampus AT is also cheaper than before. The price of the new Mark 18 of IWC is 1000 times cheaper than that of the previous generation Mark 17. In addition, it is now in the period of alternating 17 and 18 models, and I feel that it is time to buy a mark.

IWC 18, although the picture shows the steel chain, but most people buy belts.
Let’s talk about the price before buying a watch. Whether it is Mark 18 or Mark 17, it is indeed lower now.

   I say that both Mark 18 and Mark 17 have fallen, which means two things. Mark 18 is when the public price is down; Mark 17 is when the secondary market is down. My wife doesn’t like Cartier recently, and she likes IWC. I want to buy a mark. I support it. Now IWC is selling Mark 18 with a public price of 31500, which is cheaper than the previous generation 17. Some people say that IWC is cheaper than before because the customs have adjusted the tax. Others think that this generation 18 is 40, 17 is 41, and less material is used. In short, in addition to the ceramic shell of the generation 18 of the IWC, other versions, including the blue prince of the blue prince, are a price. Before 17, the little prince was 39,000, which is more expensive than the regular version 17. The price of this generation of 18 is uniform, and the little prince of 18 is much cheaper. IWC was very good this time.

IWC 18
   Mark 18 is on the market and Mark 17 is discontinued, so many Mark 17s are now sold in the secondary market. There are many new, complete, unused, and used, and there are many situations, and brothers can choose. Because of the new model, 17 is the ‘old model’. Mark 17’s price is now thousands of dollars lower than before. Mark 17 has a large caliber. The 3-row calendar window with red arrows is very good-looking and highly recognizable. It is the best-looking generation of Mark I think. Now the old and the new are alternated, and the old models are lower. It is very suitable for buying.

IWC 17
Mark is a watch I like very much, on the one hand because of ‘feelings.’

   I like watches that have historical continuity, just like I like PP. A big reason for Lao is that PP and Lao have very consistent and clear model lineages. Mark is very similar to PP and Law. Mark is one of the most pure flight watches on the market today. From the Mark 9 on the eve of World War II to the current Mark 18 (there are no 13 and 14 in the middle, because these two numbers seem to jump in unlucky in East and West), Mark has a continuous and clear model continuation and equipment records (provided to the United Kingdom , Australia and other countries), unlike many watches are hard to come by. It is not easy for Mark to continue this model for so many years. Although these histories and stories have no practical significance for today’s watches, they satisfy people who like them. Not to mention flying watches, even the entire watch world, there are not many watches that can be compared with Mark in the historical context.

Mark 18 Little Prince
Mark is a good watch for everyday wear

   Some brothers say that there is something wrong with what you said. Watches are for wearing. Indeed, watches are worn. But some watches can be inconvenient in some cases. For example, it is inconvenient to go out and play, like some formal watches, ‘sheets’. Some watches, like the King of Ghosts, are thick and can cuff up cuffs, making it inconvenient to wear a shirt. I like this watch, I can wear it anytime. Mark itself is a sports watch, with a magnetically shielded inner case at the bottom, so there is no problem when moving. Then, because the Mark itself is thin and the size is not large, the dial of the Mark Flight Watch is very classic and well-organized. With the belt, it is also very suitable for formal wear. This watch is very convenient. No matter what clothes you wear, wear it when you pick it up.

Mark 17 The Little Prince
There are some fraternity issues with movement configuration.

   Because IWC and Omega overlap in the price of some watches, so the prices of some watches like Mark, Bai Tao, and Haima are close, there is a brotherhood tangled. Some brothers struggled with the movement, and felt that the same money was spent. I bought the universal movement with a universal movement, and the Omega was 8500. Now Mark 17, 18 uses 30110 movement, IWC version 2892, this movement is familiar to everyone, 25.6 mm, 3.6 mm thick, so although Mark added a magnetically shielded inner case, but the watch is not too thick, compared to The thickness of 116400 is much thicker. Mark’s movement has also been adjusted in 5 directions, reaching the observatory standard (just without certification), and has a power of 42 hours. At the mark and hippocampus levels, I don’t care too much about the movement. After all, I have not reached the level where the movement needs to be polished and decorated. If you reach the point of PP 5296 and VC 85810, you can take a look at it to see which decorative and polished style is more desirable.

Different versions of Mark 18, the black case on the far right is the ceramic case Mark 18, which has a higher public price.
Is it 17 or 18?

   Buy a mark. In this period, buy 17 or 18? For most players, I don’t think this is a problem, because I can only buy 18 at the counter. But I think there are some brothers who go to other ways to buy watches, so it may be the same as me. I think Mark 17 is very beautiful. The 3-row calendar has red arrows. The caliber is a bit bigger. Now the price is very good, and it can even be said to be very cheap. A TV show a while ago, Putin was interviewed, wearing Mark 17. If there are any ‘disadvantages’, it is nothing more than 18 now, buy new but not old, 17 is not new. In contrast, 18 I do n’t think 17 has the characteristics, 18 replaced the calendar with a single window, no red arrow, added a 9-point number to the dial, and the 12-point triangle moved below the scale, with a size of 40.18 The ‘benefits’ are new, whether they look good or not, after all, they are new models.

Note that Putin’s watch is Mark 17.
   To be honest, I don’t know which one to buy. Two days ago, a friend who bought and sold a watch produced an 18-year-old prince. It was a single watch. The price was really good, because the price was good, it was instantly seconds. I thought about it now. I think the 18 little prince is good. Although the 18 little prince does not have the little star on the second hand, the blue plate is more beautiful. As for how you guys choose, I can’t help everyone, but there is a practical situation, you need to pay attention. Although the public price of 18 is cheaper than 17, but in the secondary market, 18 is more expensive than 17, please choose according to your own situation.
Now that I have written Mark, I will mention Da Fei by the way.

IWC

   Some years ago, there was a big flight, especially the color label. At that time, no matter what it was, ceramic, steel, and color-coded labels all moved higher. A few years have passed, and now the market price of Dafei has also fallen. It can be at least 10,000 cheaper than before. I saw that some Da Fei are not bad, I thought I would also change to Da Fei Dai Dai, I tried it later, my wrist was thin, 46 Da Fei was too big, and I had tossed two IWC before, even if I thought about it Already. However, other brothers who are interested in Dafei can pay attention to it. Now some Dafeis have good prices. After all, the price of Dafei is about 100,000 (steel shell). I think the current price is the same, and it has basically bottomed It wo n’t be cheap anymore. I can’t wear this watch, other brothers will look at you.

   PS. Many players on the Watch House often ask questions related to the second watch, because our website advocates the formal way to buy watches, I will not respond to these questions on the website.

Baoper And Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Host Michelin-starred Chef Danny Garcia’s Gourmet Feast

From September 26th to 27th, 2017, Dani García, the Andalusian chef who has been hailed as the most international prestige, at two Michelin star celebrity chefs’ night activities Zhongzhan exquisite cooking skills. During his stay in Switzerland, the Hispanic gourmet master and a close friend of the Blancpain brand also visited the Blancpain watchmaking workshop with joy.

Andalusian chef Danny Garcia poses with Alain Delamuraz, global vice president and marketing director of Blancpain (left), and Michael Smithuis, general manager of Fairmont Le Montreux Palace (right).

   While in Switzerland, Danny Garcia first visited Blancpain’s watchmaking workshop in the Vallée de Joux, accompanied by Blancpain’s global vice president and marketing director Alain Delamuraz. Taking this opportunity, Danny Garcia, a Michelin-starred chef, was fortunate to see the mystery of the Blancpain gene. He said with emotion: ‘I finally realized how sophisticated and complex the watchmaking process is. In the cooking process, I usually use four or five ingredients to make a gourmet meal and create a watch movement. But hundreds of parts are needed. ‘

On September 26-27, 2017, Michelin-starred chef Danny Garcia (Spain) hosted a gourmet feast at Blancpain in collaboration with the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hotel and Tourbillon Boutique.

   Blancpain has always been loyal to tradition and has innovated. The innumerable new complex timepieces introduced over the years are the best proof. The time-honored spirit of innovation continues to drive this watch giant forward. It is also this creative spirit that connects this family of celebrities with the art of food, and the two are perfectly natural. As Alain Delamuraz puts it: ‘Now the collaboration between the watchmaking industry and the gourmet industry is a trend, and Blancpain has been involved in the gourmet industry for 30 years.’ Highlights of this cooperation history are frequent . In 1986, Frédy Girardet was crowned ‘the world’s top chef’, and Blancpain presented a beautifully engraved watch.

One of the delicious dishes prepared by the two Michelin star chefs: roast duck with parsley puree and fresh herbs.

Danny Garcia’s cooking shows the perfect fusion of Andalusian traditional American cuisine with modern flavors, such as this pine nut risotto with creamy almonds, king crab and anchovies served with mint sauce.

   Three years later, Freddy Girardt, along with Paul Bocuse and Joël Robuchon, was praised by Gault et Millau, a gourmet magazine ‘Master Chef of the Century’; for this reason, Blancpain once again paid tribute to the three masters in the same way. These special watches celebrate the core values ​​of the two industries: the pursuit of excellence, passion, exquisite craftsmanship, precision, stability, and meticulousness. Since then, Blancpain has forged an indissoluble bond with the culinary giants. About 100 Michelin-starred chefs have become Blancpain’s best friends, including Joel · mentioned above. Lubson, and energetic Andalusian chef Danny Garcia.

Desserts consisting of orange, honey, Andalusian pistachios, and mint green tea ice cream bring the incredible gastronomic creativity of Spanish chefs to a climax.

At the two-night gourmet feast, the Spanish chef carefully prepared several dishes with Andalusian style. The picture shows the caviar broccoli and green bamboo shoot dill mousse.

Star Chef Night
   The friendship between Blancpain and chef Danny Garcia has been proven by the world on two ‘Star Chef Nights’, both of which were conducted by the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace And the hotel’s tourbillon boutique. That night, Alain Delamuraz, Global Vice President and Marketing Director of Blancpain, Antonio Lopez, Global Vice President and Chief Financial Officer, Director of Personnel and Management of Blancpain, and Michael Smithuis, General Manager of Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hospitality extended their hospitality to the best friends and Media representatives. The guests were fortunate to explore the gourmet world and experience six Andalusian-style dishes prepared by chef Danny Garcia: caviar broccoli, green bamboo dill mousse, Spanish anchovies, black truffle and aroma Flower. The six courses are carefully prepared in the hotel kitchen by Danny Garcia. At that time, he was wearing a Blancpain Flyback Chronograph watch from the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms series.

Introduction To Iwc Portofino Chronograph

Portofino CHRONOGRAPH chronograph

 In 2007, IWC launched the first chronograph watch. Although it is a chronograph, it still adheres to Portofino’s consistent low-key and restrained style. The hundreds of thousands of standards newly launched on SIHH in 2011 are more balanced in design and the lines are more solid and restrained. Accompanied by the smooth lugs are horn-shaped timing buttons.
 The accumulative chronograph display is designed in a vertical arrangement, with a 30-minute lap at 12 o’clock, a 12-hour lap at 6 o’clock, a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock, and a date and day display at 3 o’clock. Equipped with 79320 self-winding movement, 44-hour power reserve, 30 meters waterproof. The dial is available in silver or black. In addition to the classic crocodile leather strap, there is also a Milanese mesh bracelet.