During the 2017 SIHH, as the representative of the Richemont Group of fine watchmaking brands, Lange as always has a steady new product launch rhythm, from the perspective of entry models, innovative design, large complexity, women’s watches, etc. , Bringing a total of 11 new masterpieces. We have always known that Lange has always maintained a high enthusiasm for creative work and in-depth exploration in large and complex fields, and this year it has lived up to expectations. But what is the benchmark for Lange innovation? Why does such a modern and outstanding watchmaking company never use modern high-tech materials? What is it that forms the unique aesthetic of Lange? With curiosity, during the SIHH, we interviewed Mr. Tino Bobe, the production director of the Lange brand, and let us listen to Lange in his mouth together.
Watch House: Lange’s new Lange 1 Moon Phase uses a completely different moon phase design from the previous Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. Why would Lange want to redesign the moon phase?
Tino Bobe: The original Lange 1 movement has been successful for 20 years since 1994. In 2015, we launched the new Lange 1 movement, and this year’s new Lange 1 moon phase watch is based on this. A new movement was developed. After the development of the new Lange 1 movement, we did not change the design and layout of the dial, but the big calendar was improved to a jumping calendar mechanism that can instantly jump at midnight. Now that we have the new Lange 1 movement, naturally we will also develop the new Lange 1 moon phase watch. But if we continue to use the original moon phase design, it will not be Lange. We hope to be different, so we are thinking that it will be more practical if it has a day and night display function, because when you adjust the watch time, You need to know whether it is morning or afternoon, this is important, so we want to combine the moon phase and day and night display functions.
Watch House: We know that the 41 mm diameter Grand Lange 1 uses a single barrel, while the smaller size of the new 38.5 mm diameter Lange 1 uses a dual barrel. Is there any ‘secret’ inside? ?
Tino Bobe: This is actually a very simple reason. We have always wanted to optimize its structure. The size of Lange 1 is smaller than that of Grand Lange 1. There is no way to put a large spring barrel of the kind used by Grand Lange 1. However, it needs to ensure sufficient power, so two small barrels were used.
Watch House: The new Lange 1 moon phase watch uses a cardless weight fine adjustment balance, but many watch friends actually prefer the original screw balance. When Lange chose the balance type for his watch, Is there any standard?
Tino Bobe: We measure which kind of balance wheel a watch uses. On the one hand, it depends on its size. In the case of large balance wheel space, we generally do not use weight balance wheels. On the other hand, In a series that pays homage to tradition, like 1815, we will use the screw balance, a classic pocket watch design, but in other series, we will use a more modern weight balance.
Watch House: At present, the silicon material is widely used in watches, but silicon parts can only be replaced, cannot be repaired, and Lange has never been used. How do you think of the silicon trend?
Tino Bobe: We have also discussed this issue because we are a watch company that respects traditional values. We believe that traditional materials should be used, so silicon is not a suitable material for us. Another reason is that even if one of our products is discontinued one day, then after decades or even hundreds of years, a watchmaker with this ability can re-manufacture these parts and repair our wrists. table. However, if the silicon material does not have the corresponding resources, the life of the watch cannot be continued in the future.
Watch House: Why is the ten digit blank instead of ‘0’ when the Lange big calendar shows dates within ten?
Tino Bobe: We don’t think the display of ’01’ and ’02’ are so good-looking. Instead, they feel more beautiful when they are empty. This is simply considered from the perspective of our beauty.
Watch House: Thank you very much for your answer.
To sum up: Mr. Tino Bobe’s frankness allows us to see a very real Lange. Back to our original questions, we have been satisfactorily answered at this time. Although Lange pays attention to the spirit of innovation, its original intention is whether Lange products are more Whether it is practical, can make users get the time more accurately. At the same time, Lange respects the value of traditional watchmaking. Therefore, although silicon, carbon fiber and composite materials have been widely used in watches, Lange does not think that these are suitable for Lange. It is based on these concepts that Lange has formed his own unique aesthetic sense. Whether it is the product itself or the brand, whenever people mention Lange, the classic beauty of Lange will come to mind. (Interview with Dong Hang / Finishing Wu Yibing)