Tuofei Watch Lecture Hall —- Six Steps To Teach You How To Identify Mechanical Watch Movements

Watches and watches have a long history. The knowledge contained in them is rich, especially for those who are very professional in the recognition of technical terms, movements, and adjustment and maintenance of watches. Jia specially invited a well-known professional watch researcher in the domestic watch industry, and will gradually explain watch knowledge to you, and learn and share with you.
 
  The movement of a mechanical watch is relatively unfamiliar to ordinary people. The reason is that we usually only pay attention to how the mechanical watch looks, but we don’t care much about the internal movement. However, as consumers who buy mechanical watches become more and more high-quality themselves, they are more and more interested in the mystery of the internal movements of mechanical watches, and the thirst for knowledge of watches is very strong. In order to popularize this knowledge for everyone, I will teach you how to identify the internal structure and quality of mechanical watch movements in six steps:

Working principle of mechanical watch movement
  Step 1: When you get a movement, just like meeting someone who has n’t known him before, first look at the person’s appearance, then look at his appearance, and then you can make a preliminary judgment about his accomplishments. grade. The same is true for the initial feeling of the movement. First, look at its appearance on the front and back, and then carefully check whether the machining level of each plywood and each transmission component that can be seen inside the movement is delicate, and the decorative texture. Whether it is well-balanced, from this you can judge whether this movement is exquisite in appearance, and from this, you can see that its design concept and the fineness of processing are obvious. Otherwise, the parts are rough and even Twisted and distorted, the appearance of the ugly movement will be well understood;
  Step 2: At this time, the movement is in a stop state. You can first wind the movement by turning the arbor, while observing the balance spring system and the escapement. When you make a maximum of three turns (Swiss movement) It usually takes only one turn), the balance spring system and the escapement start and run. This step is to test the vibration performance of the speed governing mechanism of the movement. If it fails to start normally or is delayed, it indicates that the speed regulating system of the movement is defective, especially the escapement part may be abnormal and requires professional The watch repair master to handle;
  Step 3: If the balance spring system and the escapement can start normally, you can continue to rotate the winding system of the winding shaft to drive the movement. At this time, special attention should be paid to: 1. Your winding feel should be comfortable Strenuous and uneven feeling. 2. Pay attention to the sound when listening to the winding. 3. The number of winding laps should not be too much, it is best to be around twenty laps. This step is to test the winding performance of this movement;
  Step 4: If your movement is in the third gear, pull out the spindle to the second gear. At this time, pay attention to the gear when you pull out the second gear. The gear should be clear and you can clearly feel that it is in place. Then turn the arbor to dial quickly for additional functions. Generally set functions are calendar and weekly calendar. At this time, the key point to check is that the calendar ring or weekly calendar wheel is driven by the speed dial gear teeth, and each tooth should skip very rhythmically. If there is no sense of rhythm like swallowing jujube, it means that there are problems with the additional functions of the movement, which needs to be checked carefully;
  Step 5: Pull out the arbor to the third gear, and turn the arbor to move the hour and minute hands. At this time, you need to pay attention to the same place as when checking the winding system, and still feel better. However, it is more important to observe that when the two pointers overlap to the 12 o’clock position, there must be no deviation in the middle of the pointers, otherwise the display time will have errors. In addition, if you are interested, you can continue to rotate the arbor to make the hour and minute hands continue to rotate after 24 hours. Note that the calendar ring will jump once. This is to examine the performance of the calendar mechanism under actual operation rather than rapid dialing.
  Step 6: If your movement has an automatic mechanism, the easiest way to check its performance is to pay attention to the position where the automatic rotor sags naturally, and then turn the movement vertically to see if the automatic rotor always maintains this orientation, indicating automatic The gear train performance is very flexible. If the automatic tourbillon cannot keep the same position, then there may be resistance in the part of your automatic gear train. You need to check the gear train in this part.
(TIPS: The so-called third gear means the first gear is the winding gear, the second gear is the additional function gear, and the third gear is the adjustment time gear. The so-called two gear means that there is no second additional function adjustment. Gear, only the other two gears.)
  Speaking of which, the identification process of a movement is basically completed. Because the general structure of the mechanical watch movement is consistent, only the functional design of the movement is different in the early stage, and the overall layout of the later movement will be tailored to local conditions. As the complexity of the structure increases, the complexity of each part of the movement itself increases, and the probability of mechanical structure problems will increase.
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Jacques Launched Limited Edition Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Watch

Limited edition of 18 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon à Quantième Perpétuel tourbillon watches in pink gold, with a 42mm 18K rose gold case, clear and easy-to-read dial, equipped with hours and minutes , Seconds, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and many other functions, can be called the ultimate expression of beauty and function. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can see the operation of Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic 987 movement. The watch is set with 124 high-quality 1.9 carat diamonds, has a 48-hour power reserve, is equipped with an alligator leather strap, and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is equipped with a silicon escapement to ensure perfect timing. Silicon is an excellent material. With its excellent hardness and extreme wear resistance, it can be used without lubricants. Its superior friction coefficient greatly reduces the friction inside the movement. Its lightweight and unparalleled body performance Good inertia, which improves operational efficiency. In addition, the production technology of silicon allows watchmakers to make very complex parts with precision that cannot be matched by steel. With the flexibility of this component in the definition of geometry, it is possible to carve out a hollow structure with a smaller rotor and moment of inertia, allowing more energy to be transmitted to the balance. Finally, silicon can also be used to make one-piece parts, such as built-in pawl pallets, and the design itself improves accuracy.

Real Trajectory Around The Sun: Time Equation Watch (Below)

The legendary ‘Marie-Antoinette’ Breguet No. 160 is probably the earliest pocket watch with time equation function. It was ordered by Queen Mary’s admirers to Breguet in 1783. It should have been a gift to her. However, when the work was finally completed in 1827, Queen Mary and Abraham-Louis Breguet were already there. Passed away. For more than a hundred years, this work, also known as the ‘Queen of Mary’, went through twists and turns, and was stolen at the L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art in Jerusalem in 1983 and returned in 2007.

In 2005, Breguet decided to remake an identical pocket watch based on the original structure of Breguet No. 160. This pocket watch was presented at the Basel Show in 2008 as Breguet No. 1160. The transparent dial allows people to directly see the movement structure and operation, including kidney-shaped cams at 8 o’clock, levers and positive and negative hands indicating the time difference at 10 o’clock.
   Before recovering the stolen Queen Mary Watch, Breguet decided to recreate an identical pocket watch based on the limited historical data of Breguet No. 160, that is, Breguet No. 1160, which was displayed at the Basel Watch Fair in 2008. Of course, its complexity is not only limited to the time equation, but also a perpetual calendar and a three-question function capable of transmitting time with sound; it is also a creation that is sufficient to explain the history of the development of brands and watches. .
   Just talking about the time equation, how can we ignore it?

Marine Équation Marchante 5887 950 platinum / 18K rose gold case, 43.9 mm diameter, hours, minutes, retrograde date, day of the week, month, leap year perpetual calendar, tourbillon, true solar hour, power reserve display, luminous hands and time scale, 581DPE Self-winding movement, 80-hour power reserve, sapphire crystal mirror and case back, waterproof to 100 meters, alligator strap.
Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
   Master Breguet is one of the greatest watchmakers in history. He not only invented tourbillons, Breguet double-layer hairsprings, etc., and other important devices that changed the world of watches and clocks. He is also the original creator of the Queen Breguet No. 160 pocket watch. His precision timepieces have made a profound contribution to the watch industry, as well as measurements in the physical and marine fields. His achievements have been affirmed by King Louis XVIII of France, and he was appointed as the Board of Directors of the Paris Economic Commission in 1814. of Longitude); then Breguet became a manufacturer of precision timepieces for the Royal French Navy.

   This Marine Équation Marchante 5887 can be said to be a tribute to Master Breguet. First of all, it is very important that the precise timing tool allows the crew to determine the position of the ship at sea; this is the spirit of the Marine series. Equipped with a tourbillon that eliminates the effects of gravity, a perpetual calendar, and the function of calculating true solar time, the watch has a complicated process. In particular, the structure of the true solar time is driven by a kidney-shaped cam on a sapphire crystal glass plate, which is clearly visible at 5 o’clock. With the month scale on the glass plate, the true solar time hands decorated with the faceted golden sun can Learn the true state of the earth around the sun. Underneath the kidney cam is a tourbillon that rotates once a minute. In terms of appearance, the design of the dial Shanghai Wave is used to create a sea-going situation. The movement’s plywood and barrel are engraved with the Royal Navy’s first-class battleship Royal Louis and the compass pattern.

Attic Craftsman Celestial Super Complex 3600 watch in 18K white gold case, 45 mm diameter, hour, minute, time equation, perpetual calendar, moon phase, moon age, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, season, two to Dot, bisector, Zodiac, Tide, Sun-Earth-Moon position display, Northern Star transparent sky map with stellar galaxy, Zodiac, Tianqiu equator track, stellar time, tourbillon, power reserve display, 3600 manual winding Movement, power reserve 3 weeks, Geneva mark, sapphire crystal glass and back cover, waterproof 30 meters, crocodile leather strap, adjustment pen and magnifier, engraved ‘Pièce Unique’ on the case back.
Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
   Vacheron Constantin’s ability to make complex watches is beyond doubt. In addition to many wonderful masterpieces in history, Ref. 57260, launched on the 260th anniversary of the brand’s founding in 2015, is the most complicated pocket watch in history. And this attic artisan’s super complicated 3600 watch is also quite simple. In addition to the complex functions such as tourbillon and perpetual calendar, which are often used to show watchmaking skills, it also has sunrise and sunset, long day, long night, tide, and zodiac. Palace, spring, summer, autumn and winter, spring equinox (EQ), summer solstice and winter solstice (SOL) and other astronomical functions; the window at 9 o’clock can display day and night and moon phases at the same time, saving space, and more realistically expressing the present moment The state of the sky; at three o’clock, there are three-dimensional relative positions of the earth, the moon, and the sun. No matter in the mechanical structure or the display of the dial picture, it is not trivial.

   The hour and minute hands of the watch are made of 18K white gold, and another coaxial rose gold hand indicates the true sun. On the dial, which is very informative, it is easy for the wearer to read. However, the focus of this work is actually not the time equation, but the vast universe. When flipped over to the case back, you will find that Vacheron Constantin condenses the entire Tequila in a space less than 45 mm in diameter, including the trajectory of the celestial equator and the ecliptic; with the month, 24-hour scale and indicators of the outer circle, astronomical observation can be read Stellar time. And underneath the nature, it is equipped with the most dynamic tourbillon. Although hidden in the back of the case, it is also a low-key, but it also represents the connotation of the superb and complicated 3600 watch.

Christophe Colomb Equation of Time 18K rose gold case, 45 mm diameter, engraved wheat ear dial, hours, minutes, small seconds, time equation, power reserve indicator, gyroscope, El Primero 8808 manual winding movement, power After 50 hours of storage, sapphire crystal glass and case back, waterproof 30 meters, alligator strap.
Zenith Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
   In the era of great sailing, intelligent humans used the time on a timer to compare the elevation angle of the sun with a timer to calculate the longitude of the location and determine the location. In the process of navigation, an accurate ship clock played a very important role. The clock must be precise, in addition to being able to avoid the impact caused by the waves and the changes in temperature and humidity, the gravitational pull of the escapement must be taken into account. If the escapement can maintain the level with the center of the earth, there will be no problem of azimuth; but the wave of the waves makes the ship undulate and it is difficult to fix the angle of the ship’s clock. Therefore, some people use the Cardan suspension (a rotary balance ring that keeps objects at a fixed angle) named after the 16th-century Italian mathematician Girolamo Cardano to maintain the ship clock and the center of the earth (that is, So-called gyroscope).

   This device can also be used on watches, of course, not the entire watch, but for the escapement system. Just like Zenith’s Christophe Colomb Equation of Time dial at 6 o’clock, it is made of 167 parts, including a balance wheel with a frequency of 36,000 revolutions per hour, which can always keep the escapement parallel to the ground. ; So there is no need for a tourbillon. However, the 9 o’clock direction is equipped with a time equation hand, and the kidney-shaped cam is also exposed at 1:30 on the case back, which simply expresses profound astronomy. The name of the watch is taken from Christophe Colomb, a tribute to the explorer who started the era of great sailing.

Go To The Pinnacle Of Watchmaking Craftsmanship: Bulgari’s 2016 New Octo Watch

Since the launch of the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement Finissimo Tourbillon, this technology has set a new benchmark on the altar with the extremely slim appearance combined with the most sophisticated and sophisticated technology. Octo Finissimo Skeleton 2016 Presents the ultra-thin process with the new Ultrarano.

   Octo watches will continue to explore the infinite possibilities of ultra-thin movements. Bulgari first introduced the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch in 2014. This time it will release a new masterpiece of the top watch: the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch, which becomes the world’s thinnest minute repeater. BVLGARI has once again pushed the limits of timepieces, setting a new record in this extraordinary field. Octo’s unique personality makes it inherently extraordinary. Not only is it a classic, but it is re-launched with a new look in 2016. It is equipped with the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement, infused with a unique watch design, and shows the complicated precision of the hollow ultra-thin movement with a modern black style.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, titanium case, diameter 40mm / thickness 6.85mm, hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater, BVL 362 hand-winding movement, 3.12mm thick, waterproof 30m. Limited to 50.

New milestone: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater
   Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is a new work of BVLGARI’s original ultra-thin movement watch series. With the simultaneous introduction of the tourbillon and manual movement in 2014, the brand immediately set an unparalleled new milestone in the field of slim timepieces. The chronograph movement is still the most sophisticated top-level watch technology, and only a few top brands retain this unique craft.
   A chronograph watch involves various special structural restrictions and mastery of certain skills to achieve the best results: After the chronograph mechanism is activated, it must emit a clear and pleasant tone with a perfect, harmonious and stable rhythm. It seems simple, but it is not easy. To obtain this set of parameter combinations, you must have extremely professional and advanced technology, and only a few brands currently have this ability.

The case of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is made of titanium: it not only significantly reduces weight, the characteristics of this low-density metal ensure the best sound diffusion.

   In addition, these guidelines apply to timepieces that are generally large enough. Because of their wide internal space, they can produce the best sound propagation speed in the case and further ensure perfect sound quality. However, for the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, everything has to start from scratch because the goal is to achieve the perfect sound quality in the smallest space. The numbers are the best proof: the thickness of the BVL Calibre 362 movement developed and manufactured by Bulgari is only 3.12mm, and the overall thickness of the case is only 6.85mm.
From scratch
   When developing the technical characteristics of this timekeeping mechanism, it looks like a blank piece of paper. So BVLGARI’s Le Sentier watch workshop uses a variety of different levels to solve the problem. First of all, the case is made of titanium: not only is the weight significantly reduced, the characteristics of this low-density metal ensure the best sound diffusion. The hour markers on the dial are also made of the same material, with a sculpted hollow design, including a hollow small dial at 6 o’clock, which can increase the resonance in the case and create beautiful sound effects.

The beginning of the development of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater can be said to be like a blank piece of paper. So BVLGARI’s Le Sentier watch workshop uses a variety of different levels to solve the problem, starting with a design.

   Each solution is backed by another technology. The circular gongs directly attached to the case are individually hand-cast in the production process. There are many different stages to making a complete gong, from the preparation and shaping of stainless steel parts to tones and harmonics. The two hammers of the timekeeping device also pour out the careful craftsmanship. This ultra-thin case is condensed with 362 ultra-miniature parts, and the centrifugal flywheel deceleration mechanism vividly displays the time effect. It includes two inertial governors with a total diameter of only 3.3mm. The button that activates the timekeeping mechanism uses the ‘all or nothing’ security mechanism and is placed in the case at 9 o’clock. This design ensures a continuous water-resistant depth of 50 meters. And this manual winding movement provides a 42-hour power reserve.

The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is equipped with a BVL 362 hand-wound movement, measuring only 3.12 mm thick.

   The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch interprets the concept of ‘thinness’ with an innovative model of thinking, and lays the foundation for mechanical technology and classic complex performance with a new method. At the same time, it still keeps the brand’s advantage and consolidates the top watch Tradition. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch is about to become a watch star, with a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater can be seen through the sapphire crystal back of the beautifully carved BVL 362 bracelet movement.

OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON: Outstanding
   The Octo Finissimo Skeleton watch brings the same brilliant performance with a distinctive aesthetic, allowing the most tasteful watch connoisseurs to immerse themselves in the beautiful posture of the movement. This hollow timepiece with stunning thinness and easy to read is about to conquer fascinating precision watchmakers with a low-key and complex structure.

Octo Finissimo Skeleton, stainless steel case with DLC finish, 18K rose gold bezel, diameter 40mm / thickness 5.37mm, hours, minutes and small seconds, BVL 128SK ultra-thin skeleton bracelet movement / thickness 2.35mm, Water resistant to 30 meters.

   The black details of the watch add a visual sense to make the movement stand out. Each part is polished with infinite precision, like a precious trim, adding a sexy touch to a watch covered in black silk, with gold trim as an embellishment. The stunning charm of this watch stands out in both its ultra-thin appearance and detailed work. It is equipped with a Calibre BVL 128SK manual winding movement, with a small second hand and a power reserve display. The hollow-out mechanism is only 2.35 mm thick, giving it a 65-hour power reserve. Boldly combine multiple technologies with aesthetics with a modern design.

BVL 128SK ultra-thin skeleton bracelet movement is only 2.35 mm thick.

OCTO ULTRANERO: Modern black, masculine charm
   The Octo case inherits the brand’s Italian genes, with a simple appearance and a complex inner structure. Render geometric structures with flexible lines. The elegant style retains the natural leisurely atmosphere and adds interest to life. Because the Octo model is not a performance-seeking work, on this basis, the Octo series continues the Italian hedonistic thinking, creating classic and extraordinary models for confident men, no matter the professional workplace or elegant leisure Life can interpret different styles. Every inch of the series of watches is in line with contemporary trends, and the year-over-year changes have gradually strengthened its power and demonstrated its unique personality.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case with DLC surface treatment, can be matched with rose gold bezel, diameter 41 mm, hours, minutes, seconds, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 meters.

   Black has an inherent masculine and elegant personality, and Italian designers are the leaders in creating the black trend. Bvlgari’s new Octo Ultranero black watch is styled with modern elegance. The perfectly structured case is treated with black diamond-like carbon coating, highlighting the unique Italian aesthetic strength. The geometric design is immediately reminiscent of Italian architecture and modern furniture styles, and can even be linked to the appearance of stealth fighters, which also adds a touch of mystery and obscurity to this shape. Some Octo Ultranero also launched all black version and ‘mixed black’ version. Different designs include the use of golden elements on the hands and hour markers to set off the extreme deep black of the dial; or the addition of a rose gold bezel for an elegant contrast.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case and bezel with DLC (black diamond-coated carbon coating) surface treatment, 41 mm diameter, hour, minute, second, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 meters.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo
   All models of Octo Ultranero use superb hand-assembled, polished and other watchmaking processes. Not only are they equipped with the most outstanding mechanical movements, but they still cleverly retain the simple design style. Depending on the expectations, preferences and uses of watch fans, the Octo Ultranero Solotempo watch with a diameter of 41 mm can be selected, equipped with a BVL 193 automatic movement. The BVL 193 self-winding movement is equipped with a watch specially designed for measuring and reading time. It is equipped with a dual barrel movement and is equipped with a 50-hour power reserve, emphasizing the accurate display of hours, minutes, seconds and dates.

Octo Ultranero Solotempo automatic watch, stainless steel case with DLC (black diamond-coated carbon coating) surface treatment, rose gold bezel, diameter 41 mm, hours, minutes, seconds, date display, BVL 193 automatic movement, waterproof 30 Meter.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo chronograph
   The Octo Ultranero Velocissimo chronograph offers another unique option for contemporary gentlemen. Whether it is a sports-loving male or a keen aestheticist, they will submit to its simple and masculine structure. The Octo Velocissimo Chronograph watch equipped with BVL 328 will appeal to men who love sports style, and its high-performance movement has an accuracy of one tenth of a second.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph, stainless steel case with DLC finish, rose gold bezel, 41 mm diameter, hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, BVL 328 automatic movement, waterproof 100 meters.

Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph, stainless steel case and bezel with DLC finish, 41 mm diameter, hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, BVL 328 automatic movement, waterproof 100 meters.

Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon Tourbillon
   Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon is equipped with an ultra-thin self-made bridgeless flying tourbillon movement (BVL 268), and places Finissimo Tourbillon precisely in the center of the movement. With a thickness of just 1.95 mm, it is enough to be the thinnest movement in the complex performance field. A hand-wound mechanical movement fully polished and hand-finished with a 52-hour power reserve. The beautiful tourbillon movement is installed in the elegant and modern Octo case. The all-black case is specially made for this limited edition. It is made of black diamond-coated titanium.

Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon, titanium case with DLC surface treatment, 40 mm diameter, hour, minute, tourbillon, BVL 268 bracelet movement / 1.95 mm thick, water resistant to 30 meters.

   The crown is made of rose gold and inlaid with ceramics, symbolizing Bulgari’s outstanding craftsmanship in mastering precious metals and watchmaking technology, and creating a modern watch masterpiece with the traditional jewelry brand. The Finissimo Tourbillon with a diameter of 40mm is only 5mm thick, showing the elegant style of a slim structure. Adopt the transparent bottom design to see the beauty of rare and eye-catching machinery. The black lacquered dial is also infused with the same ingenuity, and a transparent tourbillon frame window is designed at 6 o’clock. Octo watch’s exclusive hollow pointer design brings a layer of transparency to the dial.

The Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon is equipped with a black diamond-coated titanium case. The crown is made of rose gold and inlaid with ceramics, symbolizing Bulgari’s outstanding craftsmanship in mastering precious metals and watchmaking technology, and creating a modern watch masterpiece with the traditional jewelry brand.