‘2012 will be the world of chronographs.’ Such an assertion was mentioned in the analysis reports of various luxury goods industries at the end of 2011. However, the Swiss watchmaking industry, which is deaf to hearing and seeing is believing, wants to achieve sustained high growth, has already launched a total attack on the chronograph market.
Compared with the simple three-pin, small three-pin and two-pin entry watches that are selling well in Asia in the past, the fun features presented instantly and the low cost brought by mature technology make the chronograph the second wrist of these watch lovers. Watch ‘. Except for a few distinctive style brands, almost all the brands in Hall 1 of the Basel Watch Fair have launched chronographs, and many brands even use these chronographs as their best-selling models.
TAG Heuer chronograph
As a movement technology that has been quite mature in the last century, chronographs have already formed several very classic movement designs, and they have also become the natural choice for mass production. However, in addition to stability and maturity, it has also brought limitations to the chronograph’s expression on the watch. A typical chronograph is a round case with three crowns on the right side, which have the functions of walking seconds, stop seconds, adjusting, and resetting the second hand. There are two or three small dials on the dial. Chronographed minute display, normal second hand display and more. Next is the arrangement and combination of various materials, sizes and colors. Although the functions are lively and interesting, it is inevitable to cause aesthetic fatigue.
As a racing chronograph expert Tag Heuer, since the brand was born, it has co-prospered with the chronograph, and the new chronograph displayed at the watch exhibition each year has also become the focus of attention in the industry. This year, the Heuer family’s successor, Jack Heuer, handed in his finale for his 80th birthday: CARRERA CALIBRE 17 80th Anniversary Limited Edition. The old man who devoted himself to the development of the first CARRERA watch in 1962, personally designed a new image of a limited edition watch: the brand logo on the dial has been removed from ‘TAG’, leaving only the ‘HEUER’ part, highlighting the family’s Memorial significance.
In recent years, TAG Heuer seems to intend to continue to raise the chronograph monument. Since the introduction of a 1/100 second mechanical chronograph a few years ago, TAG Heuer’s Mikrotimer Flying 1000 watch, the best sports watch in Geneva last year, is The movement of a standard Swiss chronograph is 125 times faster, which improves the accuracy of the chronograph to 1 / 1000th of a second. This year, TAG Heuer will officially release the first concept watch MIKROGIRDER that accurately measures and displays 5 / 10000th seconds with a vibration frequency of 1000 Hz! The vibration reaches 7.2 million times per hour, and the dial’s central hand can complete 20 revolutions per second. When the speed is measured, the hand is completely invisible, and only a small buzzing sound can be heard in a ‘mist’ that suddenly covers the dial. -It is not an exaggeration to call it the ‘speed of light’ in many chronographs.
If TAG Heuer challenged the future in a fast-running way, Longines’ chronograph looked to the past and played a century-long engraving of the chronograph across time and space. This year is the 180th anniversary of Longines, and commemoration is naturally the theme of this year. The appearance completely reproduces the first watch with chronograph function produced by Longines in 1878. Even the movement is inspired by the design of the time. The new limited edition watch is equipped with the L788 movement, which is a column wheel chronograph movement specially developed for Longines. The wearer can easily drive it by simply pressing a single button integrated with the crown-start, Stop and Zero-Various chronograph stopwatch functions. The smooth case lines and contours, the white dial is decorated with the eye-catching red number ’12’, which reproduces and sublimates the unique dial originally created by Longines founder Agassi.
冲 Sprinting towards the future or nostalgia for the past, there are not only these two ways to go before the chronograph surface, Zenith has given it completely free time and space-two time functions. Pilot Doublematic Pilot Watch is not only equipped with chronograph function, but also can accurately grasp all time zones of the world. The first light-toned disc shows city time, and the second disc shows day and night. The watch is equipped with two barrels, one for timing and one for the alarm function. The 30-minute timer is equipped with a large date window at 3 o’clock. The center small chase needle is decorated with super luminous material arrows, and the design of the hour and minute hands reflects a new sports style. Equipped with the brand’s star movement El Primero series 4046 movement, the frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, a power reserve of 50 hours, to ensure sufficient passing power.
Compared to most simple models, the chronograph does have its unique vitality. However, just like the models mentioned in this article, this vitality needs to be dug by brands and consumers to show up. Let the chronograph show its own quality and even personality are the necessary factors to survive in the market when this chronograph tide comes. Otherwise, these endless chronographs, in the eyes of watch buyers, are just a series of artificial beauty produced in batches.