The legendary ‘Marie-Antoinette’ Breguet No. 160 is probably the earliest pocket watch with time equation function. It was ordered by Queen Mary’s admirers to Breguet in 1783. It should have been a gift to her. However, when the work was finally completed in 1827, Queen Mary and Abraham-Louis Breguet were already there. Passed away. For more than a hundred years, this work, also known as the ‘Queen of Mary’, went through twists and turns, and was stolen at the L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art in Jerusalem in 1983 and returned in 2007.
In 2005, Breguet decided to remake an identical pocket watch based on the original structure of Breguet No. 160. This pocket watch was presented at the Basel Show in 2008 as Breguet No. 1160. The transparent dial allows people to directly see the movement structure and operation, including kidney-shaped cams at 8 o’clock, levers and positive and negative hands indicating the time difference at 10 o’clock.
Before recovering the stolen Queen Mary Watch, Breguet decided to recreate an identical pocket watch based on the limited historical data of Breguet No. 160, that is, Breguet No. 1160, which was displayed at the Basel Watch Fair in 2008. Of course, its complexity is not only limited to the time equation, but also a perpetual calendar and a three-question function capable of transmitting time with sound; it is also a creation that is sufficient to explain the history of the development of brands and watches. .
Just talking about the time equation, how can we ignore it?
Marine Équation Marchante 5887 950 platinum / 18K rose gold case, 43.9 mm diameter, hours, minutes, retrograde date, day of the week, month, leap year perpetual calendar, tourbillon, true solar hour, power reserve display, luminous hands and time scale, 581DPE Self-winding movement, 80-hour power reserve, sapphire crystal mirror and case back, waterproof to 100 meters, alligator strap.
Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
Master Breguet is one of the greatest watchmakers in history. He not only invented tourbillons, Breguet double-layer hairsprings, etc., and other important devices that changed the world of watches and clocks. He is also the original creator of the Queen Breguet No. 160 pocket watch. His precision timepieces have made a profound contribution to the watch industry, as well as measurements in the physical and marine fields. His achievements have been affirmed by King Louis XVIII of France, and he was appointed as the Board of Directors of the Paris Economic Commission in 1814. of Longitude); then Breguet became a manufacturer of precision timepieces for the Royal French Navy.
This Marine Équation Marchante 5887 can be said to be a tribute to Master Breguet. First of all, it is very important that the precise timing tool allows the crew to determine the position of the ship at sea; this is the spirit of the Marine series. Equipped with a tourbillon that eliminates the effects of gravity, a perpetual calendar, and the function of calculating true solar time, the watch has a complicated process. In particular, the structure of the true solar time is driven by a kidney-shaped cam on a sapphire crystal glass plate, which is clearly visible at 5 o’clock. With the month scale on the glass plate, the true solar time hands decorated with the faceted golden sun can Learn the true state of the earth around the sun. Underneath the kidney cam is a tourbillon that rotates once a minute. In terms of appearance, the design of the dial Shanghai Wave is used to create a sea-going situation. The movement’s plywood and barrel are engraved with the Royal Navy’s first-class battleship Royal Louis and the compass pattern.
Attic Craftsman Celestial Super Complex 3600 watch in 18K white gold case, 45 mm diameter, hour, minute, time equation, perpetual calendar, moon phase, moon age, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, season, two to Dot, bisector, Zodiac, Tide, Sun-Earth-Moon position display, Northern Star transparent sky map with stellar galaxy, Zodiac, Tianqiu equator track, stellar time, tourbillon, power reserve display, 3600 manual winding Movement, power reserve 3 weeks, Geneva mark, sapphire crystal glass and back cover, waterproof 30 meters, crocodile leather strap, adjustment pen and magnifier, engraved ‘Pièce Unique’ on the case back.
Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
Vacheron Constantin’s ability to make complex watches is beyond doubt. In addition to many wonderful masterpieces in history, Ref. 57260, launched on the 260th anniversary of the brand’s founding in 2015, is the most complicated pocket watch in history. And this attic artisan’s super complicated 3600 watch is also quite simple. In addition to the complex functions such as tourbillon and perpetual calendar, which are often used to show watchmaking skills, it also has sunrise and sunset, long day, long night, tide, and zodiac. Palace, spring, summer, autumn and winter, spring equinox (EQ), summer solstice and winter solstice (SOL) and other astronomical functions; the window at 9 o’clock can display day and night and moon phases at the same time, saving space, and more realistically expressing the present moment The state of the sky; at three o’clock, there are three-dimensional relative positions of the earth, the moon, and the sun. No matter in the mechanical structure or the display of the dial picture, it is not trivial.
The hour and minute hands of the watch are made of 18K white gold, and another coaxial rose gold hand indicates the true sun. On the dial, which is very informative, it is easy for the wearer to read. However, the focus of this work is actually not the time equation, but the vast universe. When flipped over to the case back, you will find that Vacheron Constantin condenses the entire Tequila in a space less than 45 mm in diameter, including the trajectory of the celestial equator and the ecliptic; with the month, 24-hour scale and indicators of the outer circle, astronomical observation can be read Stellar time. And underneath the nature, it is equipped with the most dynamic tourbillon. Although hidden in the back of the case, it is also a low-key, but it also represents the connotation of the superb and complicated 3600 watch.
Christophe Colomb Equation of Time 18K rose gold case, 45 mm diameter, engraved wheat ear dial, hours, minutes, small seconds, time equation, power reserve indicator, gyroscope, El Primero 8808 manual winding movement, power After 50 hours of storage, sapphire crystal glass and case back, waterproof 30 meters, alligator strap.
Zenith Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
In the era of great sailing, intelligent humans used the time on a timer to compare the elevation angle of the sun with a timer to calculate the longitude of the location and determine the location. In the process of navigation, an accurate ship clock played a very important role. The clock must be precise, in addition to being able to avoid the impact caused by the waves and the changes in temperature and humidity, the gravitational pull of the escapement must be taken into account. If the escapement can maintain the level with the center of the earth, there will be no problem of azimuth; but the wave of the waves makes the ship undulate and it is difficult to fix the angle of the ship’s clock. Therefore, some people use the Cardan suspension (a rotary balance ring that keeps objects at a fixed angle) named after the 16th-century Italian mathematician Girolamo Cardano to maintain the ship clock and the center of the earth (that is, So-called gyroscope).
This device can also be used on watches, of course, not the entire watch, but for the escapement system. Just like Zenith’s Christophe Colomb Equation of Time dial at 6 o’clock, it is made of 167 parts, including a balance wheel with a frequency of 36,000 revolutions per hour, which can always keep the escapement parallel to the ground. ; So there is no need for a tourbillon. However, the 9 o’clock direction is equipped with a time equation hand, and the kidney-shaped cam is also exposed at 1:30 on the case back, which simply expresses profound astronomy. The name of the watch is taken from Christophe Colomb, a tribute to the explorer who started the era of great sailing.