Watches and watches have a long history. The knowledge contained in them is rich, especially for those who are very professional in the recognition of technical terms, movements, and adjustment and maintenance of watches. Jia specially invited a well-known professional watch researcher in the domestic watch industry, and will gradually explain watch knowledge to you, and learn and share with you.
The movement of a mechanical watch is relatively unfamiliar to ordinary people. The reason is that we usually only pay attention to how the mechanical watch looks, but we don’t care much about the internal movement. However, as consumers who buy mechanical watches become more and more high-quality themselves, they are more and more interested in the mystery of the internal movements of mechanical watches, and the thirst for knowledge of watches is very strong. In order to popularize this knowledge for everyone, I will teach you how to identify the internal structure and quality of mechanical watch movements in six steps:
Working principle of mechanical watch movement
Step 1: When you get a movement, just like meeting someone who has n’t known him before, first look at the person’s appearance, then look at his appearance, and then you can make a preliminary judgment about his accomplishments. grade. The same is true for the initial feeling of the movement. First, look at its appearance on the front and back, and then carefully check whether the machining level of each plywood and each transmission component that can be seen inside the movement is delicate, and the decorative texture. Whether it is well-balanced, from this you can judge whether this movement is exquisite in appearance, and from this, you can see that its design concept and the fineness of processing are obvious. Otherwise, the parts are rough and even Twisted and distorted, the appearance of the ugly movement will be well understood;
Step 2: At this time, the movement is in a stop state. You can first wind the movement by turning the arbor, while observing the balance spring system and the escapement. When you make a maximum of three turns (Swiss movement) It usually takes only one turn), the balance spring system and the escapement start and run. This step is to test the vibration performance of the speed governing mechanism of the movement. If it fails to start normally or is delayed, it indicates that the speed regulating system of the movement is defective, especially the escapement part may be abnormal and requires professional The watch repair master to handle;
Step 3: If the balance spring system and the escapement can start normally, you can continue to rotate the winding system of the winding shaft to drive the movement. At this time, special attention should be paid to: 1. Your winding feel should be comfortable Strenuous and uneven feeling. 2. Pay attention to the sound when listening to the winding. 3. The number of winding laps should not be too much, it is best to be around twenty laps. This step is to test the winding performance of this movement;
Step 4: If your movement is in the third gear, pull out the spindle to the second gear. At this time, pay attention to the gear when you pull out the second gear. The gear should be clear and you can clearly feel that it is in place. Then turn the arbor to dial quickly for additional functions. Generally set functions are calendar and weekly calendar. At this time, the key point to check is that the calendar ring or weekly calendar wheel is driven by the speed dial gear teeth, and each tooth should skip very rhythmically. If there is no sense of rhythm like swallowing jujube, it means that there are problems with the additional functions of the movement, which needs to be checked carefully;
Step 5: Pull out the arbor to the third gear, and turn the arbor to move the hour and minute hands. At this time, you need to pay attention to the same place as when checking the winding system, and still feel better. However, it is more important to observe that when the two pointers overlap to the 12 o’clock position, there must be no deviation in the middle of the pointers, otherwise the display time will have errors. In addition, if you are interested, you can continue to rotate the arbor to make the hour and minute hands continue to rotate after 24 hours. Note that the calendar ring will jump once. This is to examine the performance of the calendar mechanism under actual operation rather than rapid dialing.
Step 6: If your movement has an automatic mechanism, the easiest way to check its performance is to pay attention to the position where the automatic rotor sags naturally, and then turn the movement vertically to see if the automatic rotor always maintains this orientation, indicating automatic The gear train performance is very flexible. If the automatic tourbillon cannot keep the same position, then there may be resistance in the part of your automatic gear train. You need to check the gear train in this part.
(TIPS: The so-called third gear means the first gear is the winding gear, the second gear is the additional function gear, and the third gear is the adjustment time gear. The so-called two gear means that there is no second additional function adjustment. Gear, only the other two gears.)
Speaking of which, the identification process of a movement is basically completed. Because the general structure of the mechanical watch movement is consistent, only the functional design of the movement is different in the early stage, and the overall layout of the later movement will be tailored to local conditions. As the complexity of the structure increases, the complexity of each part of the movement itself increases, and the probability of mechanical structure problems will increase.
Note: This article is exclusively authorized to reproduce it!